Bicycle brakes often go unnoticed until they stop performing optimally. One of the most common culprits for poor braking is worn-out brake pads. In this guide, you'll discover everything you need to know about swapping and enhancing your disc brake pads.
How Long Do My Brake Pads Last?
The lifespan of a brake pad hinges on a multitude of factors, such as the material used, riding style, terrain, weather conditions, and the rider's weight. Unfortunately, there's no one-size-fits-all mileage recommendation for replacing pads.
When Should You Replace the Brake Pads?
For regular cyclists, it's advisable to conduct routine visual checks on your brakes. While brake pads can last a substantial amount of time, the last thing you'd want is to find yourself far from home with dangerously worn-out pads. Brake pads deteriorate more rapidly in winter, so it's crucial to keep a close eye on them during that season.
If your brakes no longer deliver their initial performance, it might be a signal that you need new brake pads. In the case of mechanical (cable-operated) disc brakes, you can identify worn-out brake pads when the brake lever pulls closer to the handlebar. You can remedy this by adjusting cable tension through the barrel adjuster on the lever or caliper. Hydraulic systems automatically regulate pad clearance.
To assess your brake pad condition, you can peer into the caliper from above and, if necessary, use a flashlight. When you pull the brake lever, you can gauge the remaining pad thickness by observing the gap between the brake disc and the pad's backing plate. Given the individual variability in pad wear, there's no universal advice on the ideal remaining thickness. However, in most cases, having more than 1mm of pad thickness is a safe benchmark.
If your disc brake emits a metallic scraping sound when you apply the brakes, immediate action is imperative.
What Types of Brake Pads Are Available?
Disc brake pads typically come in three primary variants: sintered, organic and semi-metallic.
Sintered pads, comprised of hardened metallic compounds, boast a prolonged lifespan and excel in wet conditions. They necessitate a more extended break-in period, might be somewhat noisy, but effectively endure high temperatures. They are an excellent choice for extensive downhill rides like mountain excursions.
Organic (also referred to as resin or non-metallic) pads consist of organic materials bonded with resin. Their softer composition results in a shorter break-in period, providing superior initial bite and quieter operation. However, they have a shorter lifespan compared to sintered pads, perform poorly in wet conditions, and are prone to glazing at high temperatures.
Semi-metallic pads blend metal and organic materials with resins, attached to a steel or aluminum backing plate. They aim to deliver performance that falls between sintered and organic, contingent on the amount of metal added by the manufacturer.
Other Brake Pad Options
Rubber brake pads, employed in rim brakes, are available in various rubber compound mixes, generally offering durability and effective braking performance. They are suitable for use with aluminum rims. In contrast, carbon rims require specialized brake pads, often crafted from cork, due to their heightened heat sensitivity and distinct surface properties. It's noteworthy that cork pads typically wear out faster than rubber pads, despite generating less heat.
Not all brake pads are created equal, with a bewildering array of shapes available. Ensure you acquire new brake pads that are compatible with your specific brakes.
Replacing Disc Brake Pads
Fitting new disc brake pads may seem daunting at first, but once you familiarize yourself with the process, it becomes straightforward. In certain instances, you can replace the pads without removing the wheel, but it's more convenient to remove the wheel initially. If you possess a workstand, put it to use; otherwise, lean the bike gently against a wall on a piece of cardboard or carpet to shield the floor.
- Most disc brakes feature a retaining pin threaded through the top of the brake pads, often secured with a retaining circlip at one end. Commence by carefully removing the clip and pin, setting them aside. Subsequently, extract the worn brake pads and dispose of them.
- Subsequently, and this constitutes the most intricate part of the task, you need to retract the pistons into the caliper body. The majority of disc brakes, particularly hydraulic systems, are self-adjusting, with pistons automatically extending out of the caliper body to maintain the correct pad clearance as they wear down. However, mechanical systems function akin to rim brakes, requiring manual cable tension adjustment.
- With the brake pads removed, employ a wrench of appropriate size or a flat-head screwdriver to gently retract the pistons into the caliper; it should not demand significant force.
- Once the pistons are within the caliper, you can install the new brake pads, reversing the removal process. The new pads should be inserted easily. Reinsert the retaining pin and clip, place the wheel back in position, and squeeze the brake lever several times.
It may take a little time for disc brake pads to bed in, but riding up and down the road and applying the brakes with some force should suffice to have them working optimally.
In summary, replacing disc brake pads is a crucial maintenance measure to ensure the safety and performance of your bicycle. The selection of pad material depends on your specific requirements and the type of brakes used. By conducting regular inspections and promptly replacing brake pads, you can guarantee that your brakes consistently operate safely and efficiently, transforming each ride into a secure and enjoyable experience.